Hi, I'm Alexander Grabovetskiy.
I would love to see you as a student.
Let me help you with Mastering Wood Carving Skills. Learn Old world wood carving skills and techniques through online video lessons. You are going to learn the ways of how Master Wood Carvers work, develop 3D thinking for Wood Carving and perfect your Tool sharpening and maintenance.
Thanks for the quick response. I will be getting a Work Sharp (work horse) this weekend. And you did not sell it to me!!! Of all the solutions I have tried and bought, this looks to be able to provide the best edge and most consistent bevels. I had a Tormek knockoff (Grizzly). It worked fairly well, but the issues I ran into was that many of the accessories from Tormek did not fit the Grizzly back then.
The result will be the same as you would sharpen it by hand, just MUCH_MUCH quicker. And You have the same control over tool and pressure as you would use water or oil stones.
Alex could you post a link to the “bar/rod” that holds the Tormek jigs and fits the Worksharp? I can’t seem to find it.
Alex, I found that Worksharp doesn’t sell the rod assembly anymore.
Hi there Alex.
First off let me tell you what a wonderful site yours is. Its a pleasure to view your videos. I recently moved to St. Petersburg Fl and was fortunate to have found you.
I had a question regarding grinding a low angle on a gouge. If one is extending the outer bevel to as far as you do, what happens to the keel/heel of the tool? Is the original keel grounded out too? and a new one formed? Thank you
Thank You! As far as your question. You are absolutely correct. You will establish a new heel
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Hi there Alex. Sharpening gouges has been a challenge. I currently sharpen by hand on diamond plates. My tools are sharp, but if I need to adjust bevel or if it is a new tool, I run it on my regular grinder, which gives me chest pains when I do this. I am very interested in the Work Sharp (or work horse as you say). I have a couple of questions. Hopefully you can answer them for me.
1. To adjust the angle of grind, you can move the SVS jig or the bar. It seems to me that the easiest way is by using the bar? Is that the most common way you do i?
2. I believe that over time the biggest use of the Work Sharp is honing with the 3000/6000 plate and then the felt wheel and not necessarily sharpening. If I need to reproduce the bevel angle, just set it on the plate and adjust the bar (or jig) for the angle?
3. I don’t use a micro-bevel, maybe in the future I will, but for now I am happy with not. I always sharpen to get a wire edge. You don’t mention one, even when you are sharpening the micro-bevel. Is there a reason for this?
4.If the edge gets damaged or the points get very rounded and the edge needs to be flattened or made straight, would you do this on the work sharp or maybe a course stone?
Thanks for any answers. So far I am very happy I signed up for you school!!!!
Denny, Great questions.
1. the easiest way to adjust angle is by using the bar.
2. I love felt wheel and using it a lot on inside bevel.
3. I many of my tools I don’t have micro bevel on outside but I still have it on inside ( In case of upside-down use of a tool) I yes I am sharpening to the wire edge ( burr)
4. I am using Work Sharp or Water/Oil Stone to flatten edge.
I will film in future more Workshops about sharpening ( by hand, by Tormek, by Koch)