Alex, I found the Tormek alternative. BTW there seems to be two versions, # 100 and a #200. Not sure which one is the best although, there is a price deference of almost $20.
Thanks again,
I have a large burr on the gouge that does not want to come off by moving it through the wood as you demonstrated. What is the best way to remove this burr?
Hi Alex,
Do you not put a microlevel on a spoon gouge?
Thanks,
This also got posted on the fingernail gouge page. Sorry for the redundancy. User error…
I usually just buff inside, it creates a micro bevel. You don’t have to do it, but if You do, You compensate outside bevel.
Thanks for the reply Alex.
Alex, What is the attachment for the Work Sharp that facilitates the bar and the Tormek gig ? I did’t see it on the Work Sharp website.
Thanks,
Jim
Alex, I found the Tormek alternative. BTW there seems to be two versions, # 100 and a #200. Not sure which one is the best although, there is a price deference of almost $20.
Thanks again,
Hi, James,
here is a link to workshop. I am showing an alternative bar for worksharp 👉🏻 https://schoolofwoodcarving.io/Workshops/tormek-bar-alternative-work-sharp/
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👉🏻 Bar on Amazon
Hi Alex! Will the spoon gouge work only with the tormek 168? or can you use the tormek svs 38 too? Thanks!
You can use svs 38 for a spoon. 168 will give you a better result!
Hi,
What would be causing main bevel to be skewed when sharpening?
It could be uneven pressure or not the consistent thickness of metal
I have a large burr on the gouge that does not want to come off by moving it through the wood as you demonstrated. What is the best way to remove this burr?
I don’t do any longer ” rubbing on a wood” I just keep buffing until burr disappears.